Mediterranean Spain.

Back in the 80’s when we were big into board and wave sailing, Hyeres in France, was synonymous with speed sailing on slalom boards. We have figured out why – Hyeres, just east of Toulon, is on the edge of the Golfe du Lion, known for the Mistral winds that blows down the Gulf.

Western Mediterranean.

According to the Mediterranean Pilot, “The Golfe du Lion is an area which merits much respect”. During our crossing, the Gulf of Lion lived up to its reputation with regard extreme winds. We set out from Marseille at noon, with our course set for a 120 nm passage to Baia des Cadaques on the western edge of the gulf, just across the Spanish border. The weather forecast was for a pleasant 15 knot wind for the next 24 hours.

About 10 nm out of Marseille, we caught up with a Canadian flagged Dufour 45, sailed by a couple who had problems controlling their boat, as it was screwing up to windward with every gust – clearly, the boat was over-canvassed, despite their reefed sails. We were going nicely with a fully reefed mainsail and half furled jib in 20 knots of wind on a beam reach, doing 7-8 knots SOG. As we passed them, they turned around and headed back to Marseille. In hindsight, we should have done the same.

Annie at the wheel.

The wind was building to 25 knots with gusts of 35 knots, which is OK in a moderate sea, but the waves had built to 2-3 metres and were breaking. We were down to the reefed mainsail and were hand steering at 8-10 knots SOG, as the autopilot refused to cooperate after the first two hours. We did one hour watches on the wheel for the next 16 hours, as steering the boat was exhausting after an hour. In all our years of sailing, the 1987 Beachcomber race from Mauritius to Durban on a Farr 38, was the only passage worse than this one, having back then been hit by the cyclone Domoina, south of Reunion. 

See: https://vimeo.com/369402958

or: https://youtu.be/vaOea7ikwQE

Drying out our gear.

At 6am we anchored in the dark in Baia des Cadaques in Spain, cold, wet and exhausted, saying “Never believe weather forecasts again!” – over a glass of brandy. Later in the afternoon, after a good sleep, shower and a shave, we hit the pretty town of Cadaques for a walk up to the church and to have dinner, with a bottle of Spanish red wine.

Cadaques harbour front.

Cadaques town.

The ornate church interior.

View down from the church.

Dinner time.

The following day we walked to the village of Port Lligat, to visit the house of Salvador Dali, where he had lived and worked for more than 50 years.

Casa Dali.

Stuffed bear in the entrance hall.

Dali’s painting of Gala, his wife, muse and model.

View over the rooftop of the house.

His tower for the pigeons – he had a thing for eggs.

Statue of Salvador Dali in Cadaques.

Our plan was to spend some time in Barcelona to visit some of our favourite buildings and see the Familia Sagrada church of Antonio Gaudi which had been completed since our last visit. On the way there, we stopped over in Cala Montgo, Sant Feliu and Arenys de Mare. Since entering Spain and hence, the northern Catalan province, we noticed the Catalonian flag flying everywhere and posters calling for Catalan autonomy.

Catalan flags outside most houses in Cadaques.

Posters calling for the freedom of political prisoners.

The acting Spanish government then made the mistake to imprison nine Catalan leaders over their roles in the failed push for secession two years ago. A call went out to Catalonians to march in Barcelona in protest against the imprisonment of these leaders. The march that had preceded the unrest, had been peaceful. According to Barcelona police, about 525,000 people congregated in the city, many of them having marched there from around Catalonia.

The sh1t hit the fan when a radical movement of young Catalan separatists, Arran, called for a new demonstration “against repression” in central Barcelona on Saturday afternoon. So, we arrived in Arenys de Mare in the middle of five consecutive nights of violence in Barcelona. The right wing opponents of socialist prime minister, Pedro Sánchez, were calling for the government to take a hard line on the latest eruption of the regional independence crisis.

Barcelona barricades: Photo from the internet.

Street battles – photo from the online news.

Although Sánchez has taken a more conciliatory approach to the Catalan question than his predecessor, he has ruled out any referendum on Catalan independence and insisted any negotiations will have to respect the Spanish constitution. Spain is due to hold its fourth general election in as many years on 10 November. We decided to wait in Arenys Marina, about 20 nm from Barcelona, until the dust had settled, while we got a lot of maintenance done on the boat.

The church in Arenys – one of the very few older buildings remaining.

Detail of the main entrance.

With Barcelona in lockdown, we decided to sail to the Balearic islands of Mallorca, Menorca and Ibiza off the Spanish coast. But now, the weather turned against us, with a forecast of six consecutive days of very strong southerly winds blowing back at us from the islands for the 100 nm crossing. Our recent experience across the Gulf of Lion, made this a non-starter. Having  spent two weeks on these islands a number of years ago, enjoying the sun and the marvellous products from their gin distilleries, we decided to give the islands a miss this time and rather sail down the Spanish coast to Gibraltar.

Sunset in the Arenys marina before the storm set in.

However, Arenys de Mar turned out to be our stopover for six days, because the weather deteriorated to the point where a massive storm hit us in the marina on the 21st October. We were glad to be in the marina because the entire Catalan coast got hammered by this storm all the way down to Barcelona and beyond. A walk to the supermarket the next day was a challenge through mud and water logged streets.

The storm from the shore – not a good time to be out there in a boat.

Our journey continued on the 24th October in relatively flat seas with stopovers in Vilanova, Cala Podrit and Peniscola, covering 150 nm in three days of sailing and motoring. Peniscola turned out to be an attractive town, situated on a small peninsula with a spacious harbour on the south side, where we could anchor. We decided to spend an extra day here, to explore and shop.

Peniscola – anchored outside the harbour.

A model of the town of Peniscola and its fortifications.

One of the gateways into the old town.

In the year 1233, Peniscola, which had been under the control of the Arabs since 718, was taken over by King James I. In 1294, during James II of Aragon’s reign, control was passed over to the Knights of the Order of the Temple. It was at this point when the Templars built their last great fortress here from 1294 to 1307. In 1411, Pope Benedict XIII made the castle his pontifical seat. It was fascinating to explore this well restored and maintained castle and surrounding old town with all this history.

Entrance into the fortress.

Pope Benedict XIII.

The lighthouse at the top of the town.

Old town Peniscola street scene.

When we anchored at Burriana on Monday the 28th October, we reached a milestone: we were anchored at Longitude 0 degree, (The Greenwich prime meridian line) where East meets West. When we sailed from Nimoa island in Papua New Guinea, we were at Longitude 153 degrees and have therefore, sailed 42.5% of the equatorial circumference of the world since. In practice, a bit further of course, due to our north and south track, as we sailed west.

Calpe harbour.

There followed a few days of very little wind, so we had to motor sail and anchor in Ghandia and Calpe. Calpe has a good anchorage outside the harbour and is an attractive town in the shadow of  a huge rocky promontory. Most of this section of the Costa Blanca coast has white sandy beaches with beautiful mountains as a backdrop.

Rocky coastline.

Unfortunately, the building developments along this coast approaches mini  Manhattans as witnessed in Benidorm, our next stop. The expat Brits and UK holiday makers seem to like it here as there are fish and chip shops and Indian curry restaurants on every block.

Benidorm skyline.

New Benidorm gold coloured highrise – a Saudi prince the developer?

For every wind free day there follows a good windy day and we enjoyed two days of lovely sailing, first to Torrevieja and then to Cartagena. We are in the marina at Cartagena at the moment, waiting for a fierce westerly, gusting at 35 knots in the marina to blow out, before we continue to Gibraltar. Cartagena is a lovely town with old Roman remains of a theatre and a forum precinct, which we will explore tomorrow.

Cheers for now, our next post will be from Gibraltar.

6 Comments

  1. Dave Bruce

    Great descriptions of your sailing travel Dirk.
    I remember Cadaques very well. In 1978 we had just bought a windsurfer there and I was trying to sail it. No instruction book and of course a craft without a rudder. Took some time to get the hang of it and no one to show me what to do.
    That whole coast is still in my memory as well as a light breeze sail across the Gulf of Leon. ( We were lucky !!)
    I continue to follow you with interest but don’t really envy you sailing so late in the season when conditions can get hairy.
    Where are you planning to winter ?

    • Hi Dave

      Ah! those windsurfing days – the endless getting on and falling off in the beginning.

      We are moving on from the Mediterranean, as we had had it with the Schengen angst. Will be in Gibraltar next week to have a Hydrovane steering fitted and some stainless steel modifications done. Then, sailing to Rabat, Morocco to take the express train to Marrakech and Casablanca. From there to the Canary islands, for a mid to end December crossing to the Caribbean. Will keep you posted on the blog.

      Cheers

      Dirk

      • Dave Bruce

        Thanks for your reply,
        Wow you are certainly moving along at a pace.
        An Atlantic crossing in December could be great.
        Good luck with your planning and preparations.
        I will follow your progress with interest.

        Cheers
        Dave

  2. Mersoleil

    Greetings from Rabat, Morocco! We just sailed through the Strait two days ago, our prior stops being at Almeria, Spain, for 5 days (berth less than 20 Euros per night and the best provisioning we’ve seen in ages just 3 minutes walk) and at La Linea where we anchored at the base of The Rock for only 16 hours (a great night’s sleep and a chance to hit the Strait at sunrise). Our passage through the Strait was a breeze in winds under 17kts and only a mild countercurrent that stole about 2 kts off our SOG.

    We plan to depart Rabat on Wednesday afternoon on the dying swell and make west toward Madeira before turning southwest for the long passage across to the Caribbean. Will we see you there?

    WDF2769 at sailmail.com when we’re at sea. Let’s keep in touch!

    Warm regards from Robbie and Bev

    • Hi Robbie and Bev

      My word! You have covered some distance since we saw you in Cape Town in January. We are in Cartagena at the moment and heading off to Gibraltar over the next week. From there to Rabat, Morocco, then to the Canaries. Crossing early January to the Caribbean – we will definitely catch up over there!

      Cheers

      Dirk & Annie

  3. Denis & Toody Cassidy, Cape Town.

    Fantastic! Gee what a trial you guys had! Well done on coming through! Only briefly read and quickly glanced through. Thank you SO much for including us on your mailing list. Love reading of your escapades. Will share with Den and read through properly tomorrow. Beautiful pic of you Annie! Great cameraman! Love to you both.

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