This is a re-posting of our spring news, which was published without any photos!
Spring has sprung in Sydney and we are enjoying our sailing again, after a major refit of the electronics on Esprit. Weekends have been busy with the annual Jeanneau Rendezvous, where we were lucky to win a $1,500 voucher for anti fouling at the dinner. Also, sail aways with the RMYC Sail Cruising Division and the Coastal Cruising Club of Australia (CCCA).
Flying the new 135 sqm Code Zero.
Early in August we drove to Redfern to load Karen and Evan’s clothes and things for their move to Orange in Central west NSW. Evan would follow a week later and her Nissan Micra had limited luggage space. So, our BYD EV was loaded to the roof. EV range with a full charge should be 480 km, but with the load and topography going over the Blue Mountains, we played it safe and stopped in Lithgow for a fast charge during our lunch at the Lithgow Workers Club. We could have made the 300 km to Orange.
Free charging at the NRMA chargers in Lithgow.
For her next four years as a registrar, Karen moves to a new hospital in Northern NSW every six months. Challenging, but in order to provide the country folks access to her speciality and to ease the pain for her and Evan, a fully furnished house with everything down to linen is provided free of charge. As an occupational therapist, Evan got a transfer from Sydney to Orange. They are enjoying the less hectic pace at the brand new Orange hospital, with wineries aplenty in the area and a town which is not a cultural backwater.
Karen and Evan’s house in Orange.
The 2023 FIFA women’s soccer world cup, hosted by Australia and New Zealand, had us all excited. The Matildas did quite well up to the semi-final, but more importantly, pulled the nation together in support, whilst promoting the sport to the younger generation. A lot more skill is required than women’s rugby league or union, as well as almost no concussion injuries.
My wetlands walk.
My walking and cycling regime came along apace, cycling to the library and shopping errands, losing some weight in the process. This was inevitably offset by frequent dinner parties and the RMYC Sail Cruising Division weekends at various destinations. Our monthly first Friday boat owners drinks evenings are now themed with the August evening, a Miami evening. (think Miami Vice and colourful threads) Pirate and other themes to follow.
Some Sail Cruising members at the Basin
Early September, we thought Michelle was visiting various Pacific Islands for her work, but it turned out she was in the UK for a conference and a reunion hike in the Cotswolds with her British hiking group. Her flight back to Fiji was via America, so she attended the Burning Man Festival, again. Instead of the usual dust, unexpected downpours turned the event into the Burning Mud Festival!
Another SCD weekend at Refuge Bay
Karen celebrated her 35th birthday on the 21st September and Evan treated her to a hot air balloon flight. The following weekend we joined the CCCA for a sail away to Dangar Island where we attended the annual Oktoberfest party, overnighting at America’s Bay with drinks on Esprit. This gave the members of the group the opportunity to check out the cut of our jib to see if we were suitable candidates for their group. We seem to have passed muster.
CCCA Dangar Island Oktoberfest.
Australia went to the polls on the 14 th October in a referendum to say Yes or No to a Voice to Parliament for the Aboriginal peoples of Australia. A majority of 60% of voters decided that this proposal could be divisive along racial lines and that all Australians should be equal before the law.
Oktoberfest music by the Sauer Krauts.
On Sunday the 22nd October Annie did the 28 km seven bridges walk in Sydney – in aid of The Cancer Council. She finished in 8 hours looking perky and happy.
Seven Bridges Map
We look forward to the warmer months and sailing weekends and will post more news in due course. Cheers for now!
Early in June the Watsons and us made our way to the Pittwater RSL for dinner and a show with a ten person group playing Motown music. I love the Motown sound of the seventies and went prepared with anti-inflammatories, to dance the night away. Clearly, our age group haven’t forgotten Motown, as the joint was packed to the rafters with the 60-80 demographic, dancing like they were in their twenties. An excellent time was had by all the silver tails.
10 piece Motown band
Our bathroom renovations also started first week of June. Annie and I didn’t like walking straight into the laundry when entering the house and she felt we needed a second bathroom for visitors. I moved the washing machine and tumble dryer into the garage with the help of Bryce our plumber friend.
Laundry demolition.
Two builders quoted on the plan we had drawn up for a second bathroom and we selected the builder who could start and finish the soonest – Three Crowns Construction started on the 1st June and finished exactly four weeks later. Lars, Adam, Daniel and their tiler, plumber and electricians co-ordinated well and did an excellent job. Annie and I did the painting of the ceilings and walls.
The completed job.
On the 21st June, one year after finishing radiation therapy, I went for a PET scan to find out if there were any defiant cancer cells still present in my body. It was a relief to be given the all clear and return a PSA blood test of 0.33 – celebrations were in order. I have to have a PSA blood test every 6 months.
Michelle for dinner.
In the meantime, we had a surprise one night visit from Michelle who was in Sydney for an UN conference. Neil and Judith, now living in Perth also paid us a surprise visit and due to too much wine and laughter, I cremated a chicken on the BBQ.
Another out of focus dinner party.
Jeremy and Gerda Wiley came for a visit, dinner and a walk up to Barrenjoey lighthouse.
Our travels in Fiji – click to enlarge.
On the 6th July we flew to Nadi in Fiji, with a connecting flight to the capital Suva in the east, where Michelle lives and works for Unicef.
View from Michelle’s apartment.
Early morning exercise.
She had a busy programme laid on for us, with a tour of Suva and drinks with some colleagues at the Suva Bowling Club.
Drinks with friends at the bowling club.
Due to Covid lockdowns, we missed making a landfall in Savusavu, Fiji at the end of 2021. So now, we took a ferry to Savusavu three days later, where we stayed at Ian and Jan’s Gingerbread cottage for four days.
Michelle’s Suzuki Jimny on the ferry.
View down to Savusavu bay.
The Gingerbread cottage.
Sundowners on the beach in front of our cottage.
On a previous visit to Fiji when I turned 60, we focussed on Nadi and the West coast visiting the island resorts in the area. The area we were now visiting is low key and less touristy, which was great, as we are not into large resorts.
Savusavu yacht club.
We stopped for coffee at the Jean Michel Cousteau resort.
A highlight of this visit, apart from the beautiful scenery and friendly locals, was a boat trip out to the offshore reefs, where we snorkelled over pristine coral reefs with colourful tropical fish, before we returned to Suva.
Going to the reefs on the dive boat.
A low pressure weather system formed over Fiji after our return, resulting in rain and strong winds. This was disappointing as we had to cancel a trip out to the small Leleuvia Island, north-east of Suva – it however, allowed us more time exploring the markets and sights of Suva with Michelle.
Suva fruit and veg market.
The flower market.
Annie in the botanical gardens.
Drinks at the Grand Pacific Hotel.
On Sunday the 16th July we took an early flight to Nadi, followed by a flight to Kadavu Island to the South, to visit the Matava Eco Resort. This is really off the beaten track, ideal for a tech detox, as there is no internet or phone reception, roads or cars in this remote area. The Bures (bungalows) against a hill, overlook the Great Astrolabe Barrier Reef – one of the last remaining pristine coral barrier reefs on the planet.
Flying into Kadavu – the short airstrip with water at each end.
Arriving at the short Kadavu airstrip, a waiting ute picked us up for a short ride to a small mangrove bay to wade out in knee deep water to a Fijian longboat. The usual 45 minute boat ride to the resort turned into a one hour wet and bone jarring trip, into the teeth of the wind to the resort. With low tide, we again had to wade ashore to arrive at the resort drenched.
Bumpy, windy and wet boat ride.
The resort at high tide.
The deck area.
The staff gave us a warm welcome with hot coffee and a warm lunch, before we tackled the stairs to our Bure for a solar powered hot shower and a Nananap. The low pressure weather system over the island, resulted in very strong easterly winds during our stay, ruling out our planned snorkeling on the Astrolabe Reef.
Front deck of our Bure.
Our view out to sea.
Instead, we did some challenging walks into the mountains up to a 800 m altitude, with a guide clearing a path through the dense vegetation with his machete and us returning to the resort covered in mud. Our evenings were convivial dinners with a French family, visiting their son, also working in Suva.
Jungle walk – the “Survivor” series was shot here.
With the Frenchies from Bordeaux at the lookout.
View out to the Astrolabe Reef.
Slipping and sliding downhill on the muddy track.
After an emotional farewell and flower necklaces presented by the staff, our boat ride back to Matava was much easier, due to a light following wind. Note: evidently a flower worn above the left ear by Fijian ladies means “I’m cooking” (married), above the right ear, “I’m looking” (single).
Goodbye from the staff.
The boat ride back to the airstrip in the village.
We spend a night in Nadi before flying back to a very cold Sydney. Ironically, the warm Fijian weather we enjoyed (like summer in Sydney) was considered cold by the Fijians, as it was also their winter.
In the meantime, Karen & Evan who got married on the 1st April, got back from a belated two week honeymoon in Japan with a few days in South Korea, on the way back to Sydney.
Three months after the wedding – the honeymoon!
After selling the two small 14″ folding bicycles we took around the world on Esprit, I ordered a full size 27 speed 26″ folding bike with a 36V Lithium iron battery for uphill assistance. We used these bikes to cycle through the Bordeaux region some years ago. Getting older but not stronger, this is probably a sensible choice. My first ride around the Narrabeen lakes was a breeze.
My 27 speed, 36V, 350W folding bike.
On the 30th July we took Esprit out to sea to look for whales on their annual migration to the North. We may have been a bit late in the season, as no whales showed up. Instead, we anchored off Maitland beach for lunch and then had a fast sail back to RMYC for dinner aboard with seven friends.
No whales!
We are looking forward to spring and will report again on our activities down the track. Cheers for now, Annie & Dirk.
Just like the birds, cruising yachts have their migration seasons and May is a pretty big one covering all points of the compass globally. There are yachts passaging NORTH from NZ and Australia to the South Pacific; SOUTH from North Europe to the Mediterranean; EAST from the Caribbean to Europe; and WEST from Panama through the Pacific ocean islands.
Halfway across the Pacific, we make our landfall in the Marquesas – May 2021.
Our track across the Pacific from Panama to Cairns. (click to enlarge)
You may recall from our Pacific crossing posts, that we asked Bob McDavitt from New Zealand to do our weather routing over this vast stretch of ocean. We receive Bob’s weekly “Weathergram” on Sunday nights, and the 14th May edition had an interesting article which he calls “The Autumn Flush”, or the annual migration of yachts from NZ to Fiji. To quote Bob, he explains this as follows:
When a cold showery southerly outbreak rattles the windows in Auckland and Northland in May, tons of yachts take that as their signal and head off for the tropics.
There has been a blocking High east of NZ.
Then along comes a kicker of a Low.
The SW flow and incoming High that follow is “just right” for sailing from NZ to the tropics.
The New Zealand weather clusters the yachts together and this makes an interesting spectacle on the marine traffic maps:
Yachts (pink) heading from NZ to the tropics – their AIS positions picked up on Marine Traffic.
There is also the rush of yachts from the East, lighting up the entire South Pacific.
Yachts in pink, from Panama to French Polynesia and from NZ to Fiji
It may be only 5% or so of the traffic on the planet, but these pink yachts do stand out.
We were planning to sail to Fiji in early May, but we will not be joining all these pink yachts on the tracking pages, because my final prostate cancer PET scan will only be done on the 21st June 2023, hopefully confirming the end of the cancer. On a more mundane level:
In Australia, when you reach the age of 75, you have to get an annual “Fitness to Drive” assessment by your doctor to determine your medical fitness and competency to drive a vehicle. I had this done before the deadline on the 1st May and was told that a drivers test will be required every five years after the age of 80. I can’t believe this stage of my life has arrived! Fortunately, my sailing activities aren’t subject to these sensible requirements!
Sydney Modern: Insignificant entrance lacks a sense of arrival.
We have had more visitors: My new brother in law, Eugene and his partner Adelaide came down from Newcastle for our date to experience the new “Sydney Modern”. This new $366 million extension of the NSW Art Gallery was recently completed next to the 1909 gallery and has met with mixed reviews. We also felt ambivalent about the new gallery.
Vast areas with floor to ceiling glazing.
The most obvious feature of Sydney Modern is its failure to address the local climate and sustainability. On the north, east and west, the floor-to-ceiling glazing is unprotected. Sydney, experiences hot humid summers and intense sunlight. This will result in huge air conditioning running costs and won’t remotely qualify the building for a Green Star rating.
Spaces and more spaces – where does the paintings go?
The shortcomings of Sydney Modern are obvious: it lacks a sense of arrival, is far too big, once inside, the open space is too high and lacks definition, the space for paintings is inadequate, An unexpected bonus is a new recognition of how accomplished and technically refined Vernon’s 1909 building for the Art Gallery of New South Wales is by comparison. Its precise classical details and the stone craftsmanship are wonderful in the light of Sydney Modern’s failures.
Adelaide, Annie and Eugene in the entrance lobby of the 1909 gallery.
Reini and Lynne Adelbert from Cape Town visited their two sons and two grandchildren in Sydney and we caught up with them during their visit. We attended two music events with them: The first, a 75th birthday bash at the State Theatre of Leo Sayer and Joe Camilleri, courtesy of our friend Jim Petrie.
The poster for the Leo & Joe concert.
Annie, Reini, Lynne and Dirk at the grand old state theatre.
The second was dinner and a concert at the Dee Why RSL with Ron and Michelle Watson featuring the music of the Commitments. As is usual for the RSL, a fun night for all.
The Commitments in full flight.
In the meantime, the upgrading of sails, canvas covers and electronic systems on Esprit was completed. We had a diver clean the hull, keel and rudder and then took all the superfluous equipment, not necessary for coastal cruising, off the boat and sold it, raising $16,000 for the upgrades. It also decreased the waterline of Esprit by about a 100mm and weight by 700kg!
Our 65 nm sail south to the Jeanneau Rendezvous in Shellharbour in mid May was cancelled due to bad weather, but we are now poised to sail north to Port Stephens, when a suitable weather window presents itself.
Towards the end of May we attended a presentation by Lisa Blair at the Hunters Hill Sailing Club. She is the determined and tough Aussie sailor who got dismasted a 1,000 nm south of Cape Town on her first attempt to circumnavigate Antarctica. Undeterred, she rebuilt her 50 ft sloop, “Climate Action Now” and made a second attempt last year. She set a new record for a solo nonstop circumnavigation of Antarctica. Her moniker “The Ice Lady” is fitting.
Circumnavigators, Annie and Lisa.
I must admit, our preference is for sailing in warmer climes around the equator. Right now, at the end of May, we have clear skies with unseasonal cold weather at night and below average daytime temperatures. On that chilly note, and while waiting for the winter solstice in June, we say cheers for now.
Our last post in January brought you up to date with the knee replacement I had on the 12th January. I’m happy to report that the op was a success and that I regained full mobility within a month. There were a couple of days of discomfort when I pushed it too hard with gardening and walking, but these days are now history.
Having recently had Esprit’s sails and canvas work replaced after six years at sea, we had to bite the bullet and upgrade all the electronics which were starting to malfunction. Chad of Oceanphase Electrical installed a new B&G Vulcan GPS/Chart plotter, new B&G autopilot computer, new B&G ultrasonic wind-sensor/anemometer on the mast, re-wired the navigation lights, new LED’s for the two compasses, etc.etc. Boats, like cars need maintenance!
Annie and Gretha bushwalking in the Warriewood wetlands.
We have had a few visitors: Gretha Jacobs, a university classmate of Annie’s, visited from Cape Town enroute to Albury, where her son Sean is practising as a psychiatrist. Annie’s sister Penny, brother Johan and their partners from NZ arrived at the end of March for Karen and Evan’s wedding on the 1st April.
Penny, Annie and Johan.
The wedding in Newcastle, two hours north of Sydney, was a laid back, late morning event at Tramway Reserve overlooking the sea. Parents and siblings plus grandma, twelve in number, attended in sunshine and good spirits. Michelle recited her poem for the couple, wedding rings were exchanged, the certificate signed and the celebrant pronounced them husband and wife. Eugene’s 20 year old Toyota Camry served as the wedding limousine.
The Schady-Mullers ready for the wedding.
Here comes the bride
Michelle reciting her poem for the couple.
Exchanging rings.
Happy days!
The wedding party.
After the event, we walked down to Scottie’s for lunch. Various dishes were served from a set menu, while the champagne, beer and wine flowed. At 3pm the couple departed in their limo.
Sisters, Karen and Michelle.
The wedding limo.
The long lunch resulted in a Nanna nap before we all set off at 5pm to the SMAC art studio in Tighes Hill for a reception for 120 of their mates. Their friends, SODA band, provided music with a few speeches during breaks. OzHarvest provided the food. I requested a Lobola (dowry) of 10 goats for Karen, from the father of the groom. I was presented with a photo of the goats and assured that the goats were in good health at their Anna Bay property.
Unaccustomed to public speaking …..
Appraising the condition of my goats.
The band played until midnight, after which James Burman, an old sailing friend of Karen’s, got going as DJ until 5am. I lasted until 2am, giving my new knee a good workout on the dance floor, Annie got to our Airbnb at 3am and Michelle drifted in at 4:30am. A good time was had by all.
Soda doing their thing.
Eugene, Evan’s dad hosted a big breakfast for all comers on Sunday morning, at his house in nearby Mayfield. The 30 or so guests repaid his hospitality, by all going down to SMAC studio to clean up the venue, which was done and dusted by 12pm. We arrived back in Sydney at 3pm for a lazy afternoon and some restorative sundowners.
Annie, Frank and Penny above Towlers Bay.
Penny and Frank spent two weeks in Sydney, during which time we did some walks along the coast and also went sailing for three days on the Pittwater. Jim and Gail Petrie from Cape Town visited Sydney after a long absence. They had a busy time reconnecting with friends and attending concerts. We caught up with a dinner and also went sailing, reminding us of the good times we had on the water, when we shared Backbeat for eight years.
Penny and Annie at Barrenjoey lighthouse.
April was also a month of other milestones: My 76th birthday came around and Annie and I celebrated 36 years of marriage and other adventures. So far, so good, as we plan to share a few more adventures in the coming years. To quote Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers’ song “Rebels”: “With one foot in the grave”, (not quite yet), “and one foot on the pedal” (for sure!)
Michelle, Ron and Annie – the waterfall walk.
During the last six years, we have met many sailors from different countries. From couples like ourselves, to single handers and parents with young children. We are still in touch with many of these friends and follow their progress as they sail from continent to continent. One person in particular, who we met in Brisbane on our return journey to Sydney in October 2021, is Kayo the Japanese Australian architect who started sailing at 40. She bought a 34 ft monohull and sailed single handedly from Brisbane to Japan and back to visit her family.
Kayo on Nausikaa in Brisbane – October 2021.
Shortly after we left Brisbane, she sailed to Darwin and then crossed the Indian ocean to Cape Town, before crossing the Atlantic ocean to the Caribbean, all single handedly. We got word from her in late April, that she has transited the Panama canal and is now ready to cross the Pacific ocean, back to Australia at the age of 59. Well done Kayo and godspeed!
On the same day, we learnt that the 40 year old South African sailor Kirsten Neuschafer, finished first in the 2022/23 Golden Globe solo nonstop around the world race, sailing south of the three capes, Cape Leeuwin, Cape Agulhas and Cape Horn. This challenging race is without modern technology, with similar equipment that was carried on board Robin Knox-Johnston’s 1968/9 race winning 36 ft yacht Suhali. In the 2022/23 race the boats had to be a maximum length of 36 feet and designed before 1988. Of the 14 starters, only 4 are expected to finish the race.
Kirsten at the finish.
Add to these two exceptional women, the Australian Ice Maiden, Lisa Blair, who in 2022/23 became the first person to sail around Antarctica solo and nonstop, and you meet the new generation of female sailors following in the wakes of legendary women who went before.
Lisa Blair promoting awareness of Climate Action.
GO GIRLS!
That’s our news and pics for now. We’ll do another post when there is more news and pics.
We flew in to Auckland on the 18th December 2022 for a busy three weeks, visiting friends and family. Annie’s brother Johan (Joe in New Zillund), kindly picked us up from the airport to spend the first week with him and his partner Mary Griffiths in Brown’s Bay.
A beautiful trompe l’oeil * on an old building to illustrate the meaning of “Aotearoa”.
The Maori name for NZ, “Aotearoa” means “land of the long white cloud”. This refers to the cloud formations which helped early Polynesian navigators find the country.
(*trompe l’oeil = visual illusion in art, as used to trick the eye into perceiving a painted detail as a three-dimensional object.)
Brown’s Bay coastal walk with Mike, Lynette, Joe and Annie.
Mary and Joe had hikes, scenic trips and social events lined up for us, which I enjoyed in as much as my buggered left knee would allow me to. Apart from walks along Long Beach, Brown’s Bay and the city, there were a flurry of social events at various friends for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
Magnificent trees in Long Bay regional reserve.
Street in Ponsonby with Christmas decorations on all the Victorian houses.
Visiting one of Frank Tonetti’s container housing projects.
Christmas Eve dinner at Alec and Vick’s.
The Tonetti siblings, Julia, front and Paulo, back with their partners James and Shahlaa.
Christmas lunch at Joe and Mary – Shahlaa, Sage and Lisa left, with Marco Tonetti right.
Morning tea: Annie and Kathleen, Jim Petrie’s sister.
After Christmas, Annie and I drove down to Tauranga, about 3 hours south east of Auckland on the Bay of Plenty. My brother Vanna and his wife Annemarie’s two children, Anneri and Stevan live in NZ with their spouses and children. Vanna and Annemarie are presently visiting their offspring after 3-years of Covid travel restrictions. The mob is in good shape and thriving.
The Muller/Fourie clan in Tauranga.
Annie, Dirk, Vanna & Annemarie.
Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron in Auckland harbour.
During our circumnavigation we have met many Kiwi’s. Sailing like rugby, is an obsession for Kiwi’s, which is borne out by the thousands of yachts in Auckland harbour. We had a long lunch catching up with Mike and Sarah and Topher and Michelle at Mahurangi West on the Pukapuka inlet, about an hour north of Auckland. They will shortly return to the Med to get back onto their boats, but other Kiwi friends, Jonny and Tina left a week before, to join their boat at Ushuaia, the southern tip of Argentina, to round Cape Horn into the Pacific.
View from Mike and Sarah’s house in Mahurangi West.
Topher, Michelle, Sarah, Mike and Annie
The following day, Bruce and Caroline Cowan, took us out on their Farr 40 for a delightful sail on the Pukapuka inlet and to visit these islands.
Sailing on Bruce’s Farr 40.
Walking on one of the islands in Pukapuka.
After a New Year’s Eve dinner party at Penny and Frank in Stanley Point and then watching the fireworks across the harbour in the city, we woke up to a beautiful New Year and Annie’s 68th birthday. We felt energised enough to walk along the harbour front to the Stanley Point Naval Base and back.
New Years Eve dinner at Penny and Frank.
Auckland Sky Tower early evening – my photos of the fireworks were not successful!
We travelled south to Whiritoa after the new year to relax at Penny and Frank’s holiday cottage on the East coast of the Coromandel and north of Tauranga. Continuous rain forced us to relax for three days before visiting Philip and Lindsay on their farm at Katikati and later drive north to Whangamata on the coast.
Penny and Frank’s holiday cottage.
On Monday the 9th January, Joe dropped us off at the airport on our way back from Whiritoa and we had an uneventful flight back to Sydney where Michelle and Kristian picked us up at the airport. They had spent more than a week on Esprit, exploring the Cowan Waters and Hawkesbury River, after visiting Kristian’s family and diving off Stradbroke Island in Queensland.
Michelle and Kristian diving at Stradbroke Island.
We caught up with their news before they flew back to Singapore and Fiji respectively, to start back at work. On Thursday the 12th Annie dropped me at Westmead Private Hospital for a total knee replacement on my left leg at about 4:30 pm.
The cut looks interesting.
The TKR technology has improved remarkably since the right knee was replaced 18 years ago. I was able to get up the next morning with moderate pain and started physiotherapy at 9am, walking with first a frame and then crutches. By Saturday morning, I was walking unassisted and the surgeon and the physio agreed for me to go home after 36 hours.
Impressive bruising from the tourniquet.
It is much easier recuperating from home with less interruptions. Matt Jones the surgeon, will check the result and x-rays and take the sutures out after 14 days. Hopefully, that will be the end of this adventure.
